In enlightenment for the natural
World, 1914 seems far from 2014,
In attitudes of animal exploitation -
Confined to the cringe-making bin
Of history – ten decades makes
A difference to furs as investment.
Lessons to the wealthy made by
Campaigns of models, dragging
Dripping blood soaked fur coats
Of sable – the better preference
For skins to stay on live animals:
Worn better than a human could.
Farmed almost to extinction from
Endangered to enlightened makes
1914 seems far away from 2014.
With a note to fashion in war, is fact
That furs, having been a costly look,
Are not as expensive, as previous
Two or three seasons - a situation
Stated as not likely to last for long.
For when existing supplies across
The country are gone – Closure will
Come to two of biggest fur sources.
But for those who can, is the advice
To buy: which is seen as a patriotic,
Act - the current ranges of fur prices
Are keenly described as moderate.
To buy is the backing up a distinctly,
British trade. Secondly, such an act
Of a purchase is a sound investment.
For a long time, Leipzig in Germany,
Has been a provider of Persian Lamb,
And for pelts of the broadtail group.
It is likely that a lack of Russian furs,
Won’t reach London for the January
And March sales, though to say stocks
Of popular sables are yet to expire.
Contrasting to ladies fashions, to wear
Fur for status reasons, is a new demand
From army purposes, in the field for much
Valued warmth – From now fur shippers
And trappers will need to provide such
War demands – An effect will be Ermine,
Supplies being made limited, due to
Originating from Northern strongholds.
Reported in June ‘14 was Germany’s
Small attempt to affect normal fur sales
The past weeks are known for seeing
Many changes - How in June, a German
Boycott of sales, created a large supply
Of preferred furs - in hindsight it is seen
As indicator, by act of German Business
In Britain, moving to clear all accounts
By start of July for their war preparations.
In March ‘14 all of the fur sales had been
Seen as good, with buyers of Germany
Buying extensively, this was marred by
A lack of important skins consignments,
Not arriving in time to be included; yet
Still made June sales more Important.
With Musquash and skunk pelts most
In fashion, for German demands were
Offered 4,472.500 Musquash, also the
Skunk pelts totalling 879,000 - Against
The sales, a German stand stated that
The skins, in their lack of good quality –
With the effect, if used would cause
A drop in value, of those purchased furs
Back in March, sold at the higher prices.
Still sales went ahead with American
Buyers and British buyers taking much
Advantage of plentiful stocks - a Quote
Is given by an experienced gentleman -
Stating for the benefit of the woman,
Who closely considers economics of furs.
The comment advises discerning woman
Lists of furs given are British or Colonial;
Canadian marten (sable), moles, beaver,
Musquash, mink, fox, skunk, leopards,
Leopard cats, Canadian ermine and dyed
Seals; noting how seals are England’s
Specialty-nowhere else dyes them as well.
The seal wears longer than any fur so that
As always fashionable it is always economical.
Facts of a West-end house gaining queries
From buyer illustrates progress of British
Trade to say there is no dying of fur not
Done well in this country - an example of grey
Squirrel having always been done in Germany’s
Weissenfels - monopoly can be done here just
As well –British fur wraps are now competitive.
In the current season of 1914 styles of white fox
Is favoured previously used for stoles and muffs
Now used with ermine in capes gives shorter
Fur over shoulders with the luxury of fox borders.
Black Fox too, with white dyed to lustrous shades,
Cheaper muffs and stoles made from cheaper fox
Will, after some wear, become rusty in the light.
Value is pointed to of the leading shops, selling
Musquash coats, with low prices – the black
And white striped civet has gown in current
favour- another example of moderate priced furs
Is Siberian 'fitch', the hard pelt of wolf, being
Treated, is no longer restricted to being a rug,
But is now styled to become something to wear.
Workers of fur, forming capes wraps and the rest
Of fashion, are likely to find further work opening,
For the army in winter campaign, in needs for lined
Coats and vests- with large orders already placed.
So ends the propaganda article of fur trade in war,
Making uncomfortable relating, of animal trading.
Yet, to say the past is another place, whose bent
Of attitude makes challenges of future perception.
by Jamie Mann.
Anon.,1914. Winter Furs – Some War Influences. The Daily Telegraph, [online] 17
Oct. p.14. Col.1. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/ww1-archive/11165466/Daily-Telegraph-October-17-1914.html
[Accessed: 18 October 2014].
Mann, J., 2014. 100 years Ago - Poems by Jamie Mann. [letter] (Personal
communication, 18 October 2014).
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